¿Son los cubanos más libres que yo?

Cuando se pone el sol en Cuba, ellos cogen su silla y salen a la calle. Hablan entre ellos. Se sientan en grupo en el bordillo del Malecón. Cuando el sol se acuesta aquí, en España, yo miro mi móvil, vaya que me entre un correo del trabajo que deba responder.

Llegué al aeropuerto de La Habana la noche del cinco de febrero por motivos de trabajo. Pasar el control de seguridad fue sencillo, no me pusieron pegas a pesar de que llevaba un visado de periodista. Días antes de mi viaje tuve que rellenar una documentación que tuvo que pasar por la embajada de Cuba en España, en la que matizaba exactamente en qué consistiría mi trabajo. Era fácil: trabajo para una empresa de turismo y yo iba a grabar un recorrido de familiarización para agencias de viajes. ¿Entrevistas? Ni una a los nacionales, solo con fines corporativos a la organización del viaje. ¿Intención de la grabación? Meramente institucional y promocional. ¿Detalle del equipo audiovisual? “Específicamente”: 4 tarjetas de memoria, 3 baterías, 3 micrófonos, una cámara modelo XXXX… Tras pasar el control de inmigración tuve que pasar por la Oficina Internacional de Prensa, pagar una tasa correspondiente a 72€ y recoger una acreditación que debía llevar colgada siempre. Ya podía grabar lo que había descrito en mi solicitud de entrada. Bienvenida a Cuba.

Me enamoré. Me enamoré de Cuba desde que amaneció. Sin haber hablado con nadie. Solo con salir a la puerta del Hotel Meliá Cohiba. Un tour en autobús por La Habana Vieja, sin duda recomendable, fue como abrir la boca cuando ves venir la cuchara. La Universidad, Plaza de la Revolución, La Bodeguita del Medio, el Malecón, Plaza de Armas, el Parque Histórico… La Plaza de San Francisco y el hotel-bar Los Frailes, una visita guiada por la historia más profunda de Cuba. La Plaza de la Revolución es una gran explanada que alberga un monumento a José Martí: 52 bloques de mármol y una altura de 18 metros que desde 1958 es la construcción más alta de La Habana. “Hasta la victoria siempre”, dice el Che en un perfil creado por el artista nacional Enrique Ávila inspirado en la famosa foto de Alberto Korda. Un buen lema, ¿no creen?

Hablando sobre ese recorrido, ¿saben que los estudios universitarios los paga el Estado? ¿Saben que incluso para el turno de tarde hay comedor a costa del Estado en la formación superior? Todos los estudiantes de cualquier edad tienen derecho a la educación y a comedor. Como se supone que no hay clase social, porque es para todos lo mismo en un justo reparto de la riqueza, nadie tiene una mejor mochila que otro, nadie come mejor que otro, y, en principio, nadie va a tener mejor porvenir que otro. El reconocimiento es para todos el mismo. Y respecto a la sanidad, lo mismo: dentista incluido, la sanidad es garantizada por el Estado. No hay seguros ni empresas intermediarias, ni pagos ni copagos. Todo ese gasto corresponde al Estado. Tanto es así que, por poner un ejemplo, la tienda ADIDAS del centro de La Habana también es del Estado: la mitad de lo que gane la persona regente es, sin más, de Cuba. Y es el Estado quien, en principio, paga a los cubanos, como cuando tus padres te dan la paga. El salario medio mensual en Cuba en 2016 fue de 740 pesos cubanos (CUP). Según una información de EFE, exactamente “un cubano adulto recibe al mes aproximadamente 7 libras de arroz, 4 de azúcar, medio litro de aceite de soja, un paquete de café mezclado, un paquete de pasta, cinco huevos y pequeñas cantidades de carne de pollo. Los niños reciben un litro diario de leche hasta que cumplen los siete años”. ¿Cómo levantarse ante quien te da de comer?

Por la calle, andando por el centro, me encontré con una mujer que me dijo, “eh, gringa, regálame tu camiseta”. Y yo le dije, “cómo te voy a regalar mi camiseta, y yo qué me pongo”. ¿Su respuesta?: “usted se puede comprar otra ahí mismo, en esa tienda”. Lo tenía claro. Como no le contesté, añadió, “pues deme crema de manos, seguro que lleva en el bolso”. El gran lujo de la crema de manos. Y conocí a un taxista, de quien tengo un fotograma grabado en la retina, que me dijo que estaban muy contentos porque este año iban a poder votar en una especie de elecciones autonómicas. “¿Pero qué partidos hay aquí?”, pregunté; “solo uno, pero vamos a poder votar”. ¿Y esa alegría? Es que van a “poder votar”. Por cierto, allí la propaganda electoral la hace el candidato, escribiendo a mano su currículum y fotocopiando en blanco y negro el documento. Y luego se pega en los escaparates y en las fachadas con cinta adhesiva. Ah, por cierto, el taxista era licenciado en Química, pero a pesar de que la mitad de los ingresos de su trabajo pertenecen al Estado ganaba más si compraba un taxi que ejerciendo como químico.

De camino al barrio de Jaimanitas, reformado con mosaiquismo por los vecinos a cargo de un amante del arte de Gaudí, vimos las dos caras de Cuba. El barrio de los diplomáticos y, muy de lejos, la casa del Presidente. Las empresas internacionales. Los centros comerciales y grandes supermercados, que “no es que no puedan pasar los cubanos, es que como no tienen dinero para pagar lo que venden, pues no entran, pero no es que tengamos la entrada prohibida”. Bueno, digamos entonces que la entrada es prohibitiva. Los hoteles para turistas y los hoteles para cubanos, esos que solo utilizan para la noche de bodas y que lo mismo no tienen ni cristales en las ventanas. Porque en Cuba, atención, hay sitios a los que no pueden ir los cubanos, como por ejemplo a un servicio de Catamarán con destino a Cayo Blanco, donde se puede tener al alcance una langosta congelada recocida. Y si tienes doble nacionalidad, la cubana y otra más, tampoco puedes ir, pues prevalece la nacionalidad cubana mientras que no renuncies a ella.

Otra curiosidad es que los extranjeros no pueden adquirir posesiones. Conocí a un tipo italiano que tenía una Harley, una de las pocas que quedaron tras la Revolución. El Estado mandó cementarlas en una fosa por su origen americano y algunas fueron escondidas. Una Harley de los años 40 que el comprador ha tenido que poner a nombre de un amigo cubano, porque para tener una propiedad, aunque sea una moto, tienes que renunciar a tu nacionalidad y adquirir la cubana. Y entonces todo es del Estado. Como la vivienda.

No obstante, el pueblo cubano es tranquilo. Vive enamorado de Cuba. Son patriotas. Viven en comunidad y se deben a sus vecinos. Son amables, extremadamente cultos, muy serviciales. Cuando salen de trabajar saben que mañana van a volver, no tienen móviles con libre acceso a la información y redes sociales por lo que no pueden juzgar nada, para lo bueno y para lo malo. Tienen televisión internacional y son amantes de la programación española: de Cuéntame, de la Voz Kids, del Internado y del informativo de TVE. Y cuando te cuentan la historia de Cuba te dicen que los españoles vinieron a “asesinar” a los colonos y que los “exterminaron”. Y como los mataron se quedaron sin esclavos, y tuvieron que traer a africanos. Y en Radio Rebelde, cuando cuentan la noticia de que El Corte Inglés llega a Cuba, explican que “los españoles han pasado de invasores a proveedores”. Y de esa atrocidad ha quedado una mezcla que hace de Cuba un país único.

Sin duda los días que he pasado en Cuba me han hecho reflexionar sobre cuestiones políticas, sociales, económicas e históricas. Seis días de grabación en los que he podido beber unos tragos de la esencia cubana. ¿Volveré? Eso espero. Quiero saber más. Porque me pregunto si en algunos aspectos no son más libres que yo. O si yo vivo bajo una democracia poco democrática y al final no es un sistema tan distinto uno de otro… Pero viven restringidos por el Estado de una forma descubierta. Y son felices. Un contraste de emociones que merece la pena vivir.

Por cierto, igual que los andaluces no vamos siempre vestidos de gitanos y bailando flamenco, en Cuba tampoco van vestidos de salseros ni te hablan cantando bachata. No obstante, aquí tenéis un vídeo sobre la historia de su música con mucha marcha.

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